Близнецы

Description of the first ascent of the "Bliznetsy" peak via the north-eastern spur in the Pamir-Alay mountain range, made by a group of instructors from the Varzob alpine club in 1968.

Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "TADJIKISTAN" Alpinist camp "VARZOB". DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "BLIZNETSY" VIA THE NORTHEAST COUNTERFORCE (PAMIR-ALAI, REGION OF THE "VARZOB" ALPLAGER). Dushanbe – 1968 Introduction To continue exploring the mountain region near the "VARZOB" alpinist camp, and to further the sporting growth of alpinist-discharge holders and instructors, the "VARZOB" alpinist camp organized an ascent to the summit "BLIZNETSY". By participating in ascents to neighboring peaks: "VARZOBSKAYA PILA", "KRYL'YA TADJIKISTANA", instructors from Dushanbe had long been eyeing the northern slopes of "Bliznetsy" — steeply falling walls 1.5–2 km long — in the gorge of the "MAYKHURA" river. It was probably then that the idea of traversing the northeast counterforce of the "BLIZNETSY" peak was born. The peak was named "BLIZNETSY" back in the early days of alpinism in Tajikistan (1952–1953). When viewed from the south, all three elevations of the peak have absolutely identical outlines, while from the north these outlines are lost. Geographical and Alpinist Characteristics of the Region The massif that includes the "BLIZNETSY" peak occupies an intermediate position between "TIA-N'SHAN'" and "PAMIR" and is known as "PAMIRO-ALAI".

Ascent to the Twins peaks from the south, 26 cat. diff., from the Panoramka cirque, 8 hrs, grassy slopes, scree, rocks.

The Twins from the South, category III, route 26, fig. 27. The ascent to the summit is done from the Panorama Peak cirque. The approach from the mouth of the Siama River along the Panorama Peak River takes 5 hours. It is possible to start the ascent from the lake below the Varzobskaja pila Peak. In this case, it is necessary to: Cross a grassy spur into the Panorama Peak valley Reach the foot of the Twins under the slopes of the Krylja Tadzhikistana Peaks. The ascent to the summit is via grassy slopes and scree with individual rock outcrops. In places, fine scree lies on slabs, requiring special care. Snow is present at the beginning of summer. The traverse from the Main summit to the Northeast summit is done through the gap between them. Descend from the Main summit down the rocks for 20–30 m to a ledge, from which a fixed rope leads to the col. The rope can be left in place and used upon return. Cross the sharp ridge of the col to beneath the Northeast summit. First, follow the scree ledge to the right of the ridge, then traverse the slab and easy rocks of the ridge to reach the summit. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours. Fig. 27