Скальный, Северная

Peak0
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a 5B category complexity route to the North summit of peak Skalniy via the "mirror" of the East face in the Kemisdikty gorge of the Alay ridge.

I. Climbing category - rock 2. Climbing area - Kemisdikty gorge, southern spurs of the Alay ridge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route - Northern peak of Pik Skalny, via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall, 4421 m. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route - 870 m, height difference of the wall section - 750 m, "mirror" 500 m, average steepness of the wall section - 87°, length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty - 690 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying / for ITO rock 98 / 13, bolted 0 / 4, "heavenly" 0 / 6, chocks 14 / 17 7. Number of climbing hours - 29 hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics:

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Description of the ascent route to the Severny summit of Pik Skalisty via the NNE edge, difficulty category 5B, climbed by the MVO team in 1981.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kemisdykty glacier.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Skalny North summit, 4421 m, via NNE edge.
  4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: rock climbing. — height difference — 950 m, — average steepness: — wall part: 66°,
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Description of the first ascent of Peak 4480.5 m in the Apay-Tau ridge via the snowy ridge, complexity category 2B, 8.5 walking hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area: Alaisky ridge, Keksu river area.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 4480.5 m, via the southern ridge (first ascent).
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category of difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; rocky route; length of sections 5–6 km/tr; average steepness — 35°–40°.
  6. Pitons driven: for belay for creating artificial holding points. Rock — Ice — Bolt —
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Climbing route description for Peak Skal'ny (4480 m) via the South-West wall and North ridge, category 36, in Pamir-Alay.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m. average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:
    • I — 800 m.
    • II — 680 m.
    • III — 515 m.
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