PEAK CHETYREKH 6299

I. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Climbing Object

The object of our ascent — Peak Chetyrekh (6299 m) — is located in the northwestern Pamir, in the western branch of the Akademiya Nauk Range. The node dividing the range into western and eastern branches is the massif of Peak Ahmadi Donisha (6666 m), which is connected by saddles to both the eastern branch, ending with the peaks Muzzhilga, Sandal, and Shilbe (Mazarskie Alpy), and to its western branch, which begins with Peak Chetyrekh and ends with the grandiose peak of Peak E. Korzhenevskoi. The southern slopes of Peak Chetyrekh drop down to the Moskvina Glacier, in the Fortambek valley, while the northern slopes descend into the Aiu-dzhilga valley, from where the ascent was made. The summit of Peak Chetyrekh had already been reached from the south via the simplest route, but the path from the north, from Aiu-dzhilga, remained untrodden. The reconnaissance showed that the virtually only path to the summit from the Aiu-dzhilga valley is an ascent to the saddle between Peak Ahmadi Donisha and Peak Chetyrekh, followed by an ascent along the ridge to the summit.

II. Brief Description of Climbing Conditions in the Area

a) Terrain Features

Team Composition

1. Golubkov B.S. — team leader: 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
2. Vlasov V. 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
3. Milovanovich V.D. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")
4. Polyakov D.A. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")

Ascent Description

In July-August 1961, a mountaineering expedition organized by the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society was in the Pamir region, near Peak Kommunizma.