The crux section was climbed, but the route was not finished in full. This is useful when the crux itself defines the line's difficulty.
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Pik Semionova Tien-Shanskogo · Джиндысу
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
ELThe crux section was climbed, but the route was not finished in full. This is useful when the crux itself defines the line's difficulty.
A limit-of-a-day or 1–2 day route. A bivouac is possible or likely, and retreat and descent are serious work on their own.
There are isolated dangerous spots, but they are short or well controlled by start time and line choice. The risk is usually clear and local.
A fall is usually well controlled: reliable gear close by, clear belays, terrain that does not lead to hitting ledges or the ground.
2 sections · 1050 m
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Distinct mixed, where the tool acts as a proper point of movement, but there's no hard dry-tooling yet.
Translated from Russian
Reached the overnight camp at 4750m. Ran out of time to reach the summit.