The crux section was climbed, but the route was not finished in full. This is useful when the crux itself defines the line's difficulty.
Байчечекей
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
The crux section was climbed, but the route was not finished in full. This is useful when the crux itself defines the line's difficulty.
Part-of-the-day route or a short day from base. Approach and descent are broadly straightforward, route-finding is rarely a problem.
Sustained moderate danger. Good timing and conditions help, but do not remove the risk entirely.
A fall is usually well controlled: reliable gear close by, clear belays, terrain that does not lead to hitting ledges or the ground.
4 sections · 530 m · 2 pitches
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Первые две веревки движения – до входа в кулуар.
Движение по кулуару до ключевой стенки.
About 70–80°: already steep ice where confident front-pointing and careful tool work are needed.
Ключевой участой маршрута (20 м) и далее еще около 40 метров усложненного рельефа.
Выход в чашу, движение по чаше до перемычки.