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Route Description: ЮВ стене
Description of the ascent route to Peak XIII Congress of Komsomol via the South wall, category IIIB, with a detailed analysis of the path and the first ascent.
- Climbing class — rock climbing
- Climbing area — Sakashilsky
- Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
- Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
- Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
- Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
- Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
- Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:
- I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category
Route Description: СЗ ребру
Description of the route to the top of Cheget-Kara-Bashi via the northwestern ridge, category 3B difficulty, including the characteristics of the ascent and the technical complexity of the route.
- Climb characteristic: technically challenging.
- Climbing area: Adyl-Su gorge, Central Caucasus.
- Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern ridge, 3667 m.
- Climb characteristic: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness from 45° to 60°, length of difficult section 15 m, 10 m, 40 m.
- Number of pitons: rock — 10, ice — –, drill — –.
- Number of walking hours: 10.
- Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: –.
- Team name: "Elbrus" alpine camp.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
- Plemyalkov Pavel Kirillovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 3B difficulty, with a description of the route and necessary equipment.
211. Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol via the North-Eastern Ridge (M. Pavlenko's route, category III difficulty)
The path from the town of Tyrnyauz (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, follow the left bank of the
Sakashil River into the upper floodplain, where the river branches into several streams. Cross the river and ascend via large scree to an old terminal moraine of the Sakashil Glacier. Follow the moraine to reach the upper terrace. Then, either follow the stream or ascend slightly higher via grassy slopes on the right bank, and then via scree, approach the base of the Southeast Wall of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. Turn right here and ascend up-right via a broad grassy couloir to a distinct notch on the North-Eastern ridge of the peak. 1.5–2 hours from the initial bivouac.
From the notch, turn left and ascend 80 m straight up via moderately difficult steep slabs with small ledges and holds (piton belay, "live" rocks!). In the upper part, bypass steep smooth slabs on the left via a steep but straightforward couloir ("live" rocks!). From the couloir, bypass a нависающий угол on the left via ledges and ascend via a moderately difficult, indistinct internal corner to a ledge above an overhanging rock. Then, ascend via ledges on the left side of the wall to reach the ridge. Follow a straightforward, gently sloping ridge to R1, which is bypassed on the right via ledges (piton belay!). Then, ascend via moderately difficult rock to a point below R2, which is also bypassed on the left. Beyond the gendarme, ascend right onto the summit ridge. Follow a steep, sharp, but straightforward rocky ridge to ascend Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. 5–6 hours from the notch.