Activity Feed

3. Maly Galdor via the Western Ridge (combined route, category II difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend via a potentially snow-covered scree-filled couloir towards the saddle between Sredniy and Maly Galdor. In the middle part of the couloir, exit it and proceed 200–250 m upwards along the scree shelves and rocky outcrops on its right side. Then, ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope of the couloir (risk of rockfall — use protection) to reach the right side of the ridge saddle between Maly Galdor on the right and Sredniy on the left. At the saddle, turn right and exit onto the rocks of Maly Galdor's Western Ridge. Continue along the straightforward, occasionally steep ridge rocks, overcoming small rock formations head-on (the large rock formation can be bypassed on the right with protection), to ascend Maly Galdor. The ascent from the platforms near the black rock takes 3–4 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Fig. 6 21. Nakhashbīta Glavnaya via North-Eastern Ridge (the route is combined, by L. Khodyush, category III, Fig. 6). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbīta Glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Khazni Pass is described in route 20. At the pass, turn right and approach the rocky belt under the Nakhashbīta Pass in the Sugansky Ridge via a steep snowy slope. Climb up the rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the belt ("live" stones, piton belay). Traverse the snowy slope above the rocky belt to reach the ice-snow ridge. Follow a steep (key belay), and after a small snow depression, a wide gentle 250–300-meter ridge-slope to reach the Nakhashbīta Pass. Set up a bivouac at the pass. The path from the "Nakhashbīta" meadow to the Nakhashbīta Pass is described in route 10. A safer path to climb the North-Eastern ridge of Nakhashbīta is from the Tsukhgar­ty Glacier via a steep ice-snow slope, left of the first rocky outcrop - a rib, with an exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta above the Nakhashbīta Pass. When climbing from the Nakhashbīta Glacier:

• Turn right at the pass
• Climb up a simple, gentle, long, snow-covered, heavily destroyed rocky ridge
• Continue along the simple snowy North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta