2. Ascent to the summit Glavny Ptysh (3520 m) along the eastern edge — cat. diff. 3B (Fig. 39)

Bivouac on the Ptyshsky pass. From the pass, 30 m to the right along the shelves to a 3-meter wall and along it to the left and upwards to the jagged ridge composed of inclined slabs (piton protection!). Further directly along the ridge to the steepest part of the ascent (bypassing to the south is not recommended). At the steep part of the ascent:

• exit to the left to the internal corner,
• along it upwards 15–18 m (thorough piton protection!)
• exit to the shoulder. From the shoulder:
• upwards on the right side of the wide couloir (rockfall!)
• to the summit. From the pass 6–7 hours.

Fig. 39

3. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Ptysh via the "tie" — beyond the category of difficulty (see Fig. 39)

From the Ptyshsky pass, move right along the glacier (protection!) towards a large rocky ridge. Ascend the rocky ridge 40–50 m upwards to a bivouac. From the pass, it takes 1 hour. From the bivouac, ascend 90–100 m upwards along the broken rocks (rockfall hazard!), exit onto a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–40°, and from there, move right-upwards towards a rocky outcrop. Ascend 50–60 m up the rocky outcrop (protection via protrusions!), exit onto a steep snowy slope (45°), and from there, cross a bergschrund onto a rocky outcrop in the "tie" couloir. Ascend 40 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!), then traverse the steep snowy couloir leftwards (protection!), and exit onto rocks. Ascend 60 m up the rocks (protection via protrusions!) to a steep snowy slope (60–65°), and from there, ascend 180–200 m straight upwards (protection!) to a platform to the right of a gendarme. To the right of the gendarme, ascend scree, then move left behind the gendarme along rocks of medium difficulty towards a narrow icy couloir. Cross the couloir leftwards (piton protection!), exit onto rocks of medium difficulty, and ascend straight upwards onto a ridge. Ascend to the summit along the broken rocks of the ridge. From the bivouac on the rocky outcrop to the summit, it takes 6 hours. The descent follows the ascent route and takes 5–6 hours. The route from the bergschrund to the summit is prone to rockfall!

Recommendations for climbers

1. The number of participants in a group should not exceed 6 people.
2. The initial bivouac is on a rocky ridge.
3. Departure time from the bivouac should not be later than 4 am.