СВ гребню

Mixed5,090 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
0

Description of the ascent route to the summit along a snowy and rocky ridge with detailed technical details and path difficulty.

upper gentle part. Then along the snowy slope for about 1000 m to the Pirokaya saddle — to the lowest point of the ridge between the Unremarkable (Sharilya) and Warsaw peaks. The ascent route to the peak goes along the ridge leading from the Unremarkable (Sharilya) peak to Warsaw. The first elevation on the ridge is bypassed on the left along the snow. Then:

  • along the gentle snowy ridge to the first ascent of 50 m (steepness 50°); the ascent is overcome head-on;
  • a gentle and sharp snowy ridge of 50 m leads to the second ascent of about 10 m, which is also passed head-on on snow;
  • after 30 m of snowy ridge, the exit is under the rocky summit — a tower. From under the tower:
  • 40 m along the névé — ice with a steepness of about 50° with rock exits;
0
0

The ascent of Peak Pak (5484 m) via the South-East ridge, category 4A route, made in 1969 by a group of climbers.

  1. Pak (5484 m): via the northeast ridge, cat. 4A diff. August 4-5, 1969. K. Kintopf, P. Polesini, K. Kazint, G. Glazot, B. Bogdan, K. Kikowski, T. Piotrovski The peak is located in the Turnapatentse cirque of the Burovsky glacier, northwest of the Dolgaznany pass. This is a very beautiful summit with a characteristic pyramidal shape, the sharp peak of which reaches 5484 m. From the Burovsky glacier, on the left side of the Olga Fedchenko glacier, one gains about 500 m to the snowfields.
0
0