В краю С стены и СВ гребню
Ice4А5,418 m
Route Description: В краю С стены и СВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent of Peak MGU (5,430 m) via W edge of S wall and NE ridge, Zeravshan Range, category 4B.
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Rog valley — 5.3.3.
- Peak MSU, 5430 m, via E edge of N wall and NE ridge (via shoulder 4831)
- Category 4B, first ascent
- Route type — snow and ice
- Route height difference 1250 m (by GPS) Route length 2350 m. Length of sections 5 — 10 m, 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 52°, entire route — 37°.
- Pitons left on the route: total 2; including bolted 0. Used on the route: rock pitons 3, chocks 2, ice screws 68. Used pitons: bolted stationary 0, including ITO 0, bolted removable 0, including ITO 0.
- Team's travel hours: 44 h, 5 days.
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Route Description: В краю С стены и СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the route to Peak Tutek (5544 m) via the NE wall, including photographs of key sections and characteristic relief features.
Photo 1. Panorama of the Tutek massif from the Samjon river valley
Photo 2. MSU peak from the start of the route
Photo 3. Overcoming the bergschrund (section 4230–4240)
Photo 5. The same (view back)
Photo 4. Traversing the snow-ice slope (section 4240–4340)
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