Ю гребню с пер. Биоб

Description of the ascent to the peak Krasnykh Zory (from the south, approximately) Peak Krasnykh Zory (4950 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Biiob river, in a spur extending in a southwest direction from the peak Bolshaya Ganza. The peak is rocky, almost without snow cover; ice is found in chimneys facing north. The rocks are heavily destroyed but have few cracks for driving in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges are well used for belays. The first ascent to this peak was made "to Krasnye Zori" in 1937 by the Rigzel-Kavakova group from the north. In the note left by the pioneers, it is indicated that they consider it as a 3B category of difficulty route. We undertook an ascent from the south along the ridge. Approaches to the peak from Lake Iskander-Kul: up the Sarytog river, then along the Arg river, and then along the Biiob river to its upper reaches. It is better to spend the night before the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. From the overnight site, we ascend along the dry riverbed through the moraine to the western ridge along easy but heavily destroyed rocks. We reach the southern ridge, bypassing several easy gendarmes on the right and left. The ascent to the southern ridge from the overnight site takes 3-4 hours. A note lies at the beginning of the route. The route can be divided into three sections:

1. from the start of the route to the first col;
2. from the first to the second col;
3. from the second col to the summit.