Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m).