С склону В кф.
Mixed3А
Route Description: С склону В кф.
SSummitMateCategory 6A route to the summit of Osh Glavnaya via the Main counterfort of the Northern slope of the Eastern counterfort of the Southern ridge.
- Osh — Glavnaya via the North Slope of the East Buttress of the South Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1500 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 4.5–5 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine in the upper cirque of the Kurgan valley — see route 10. From the initial bivouac:
- Ascend the broad slope of the northern spur, composed of small and medium talus, to the right of the base of the East Buttress, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop on the left and the upper one on the right.
- Above it, make a 60-meter traverse left along simple, broken rocks on the left side to bypass the 1st sentinel of the saddle.
- Behind the sentinel, reach the crest of the saddle below the 2nd large sentinel.
- Ascend steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty along the 80-meter crest (pitons for protection) to the 2nd sentinel.
- Cairn.
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