Ю стене и В гребню
Route Description: Ю стене и В гребню
Description of the 2Б route to the Maly Zamok peak in the Pamir-Alay, traversing the South face and the East ridge with details of the approach and ascent.
2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description
The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012.
The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line.
We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route.
The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.