правому кф. С гребня
Rock2А
Route Description: правому кф. С гребня
Ascent to the summit of Tapas Ridge (2870 m) via the right buttress of the northern ridge, category of difficulty 2A.
Tapassky Ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — 2870 m, via the right counterfort of the northern ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees, length of section R1–R5 cat. diff. by steepness in degrees: 30–35; 1000 m; R1 — 300 m, R2 — 300 m.
- Pitons driven for protection to create artificial anchor points: Rock — 2 pcs. Ice — Bolt —
- Number of climbing hours — 7–8 h
0
0
Route Description: правому кф. С гребня
The ascent to the summit of Teke (3870 m) via the right buttress of the North ridge, category 2A, takes 6-7 hours from camp to camp.
V. Teke (3870 m)
via the right buttress of the North Ridge, Cat. 2A The ascent starts from the Nefertiti campsite. Cross to the other side of the "Terek" river, then:
- Reach the last (rightmost) ridge that leads to the crest and begin ascending along the fir-covered talus slope.
- To the left, there is a snow (scree in summer) couloir-ridge with powerful gendarmes in the upper part. The approach to the start of the ridge from the campsite takes 30 minutes. Then, ascend along the talus, heavily eroded crest to the first rock walls. Movement up to this point is simultaneous. Tie in before the rock walls. Continue ascending along the rocky sections with intermittent insurance. The sections are Cat. 1-2. The length is 180-200 m.
- An 8-9 m rock is bypassed on the left via ledges that are 30-35 m long, Cat. 2.
- Insurance is provided through protrusions. The route continues along the ridge. Insurance is provided by a rope placed around protrusions. The path leads to a snowy slope with a 30-35° incline, insured via an ice axe, 25-30 m long; there may be cornices. Before reaching the summit ridge, there is a long 130-140 m snow ascent with a slope incline of up to 40°. Insurance is provided through ice axes. The path leads to the crest. The summit point is 250-300 m to the left. Along the way, there are simple rocks, Cat. 1B-2A. Insurance is provided along the crest. A summit cairn.
0
0