С ребру
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent to Dvopoy Peak (4355 m) via the North Central Ridge, category 4 difficulty, Talas Alatau Range, Western Tian Shan.
- Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge.
- Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km
- Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°.
- Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points.
- Rock — 12
- Ice — 5
- Hook anchors —
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent to Jolo Peak (4355 m) via the North Central Ridge, category 4 complexity, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.
4135
Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m
via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is
- a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
- Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
- Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.