Ю гребню
Route Description: Ю гребню
Climbing report on Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) in Tian Shan in 1959 via the northeast ridge, rated 5B difficulty.
Orography and Glaciation
Peak Maksim Gor'kiy (6,050 m) is undoubtedly one of the most technically challenging peaks in the vast mountain range of Tien Shan. This beautiful peak rises above the middle part of the Stalin Ridge, with Peak Chapayeva (6,371 m) to the east beyond a saddle, and Peak N. Krupskaya (5,900 m) — still unclimbed — to the west, beyond a sharp drop in the ridge. Peak Maksim Gor'kiy has the shape of a giant trapezoid, sharply elevated above the ridge line. The summit ridge stretches from west to east for almost 2 km, with the highest point located in the eastern part, rising 150–170 m above the ridge. Three lateral spurs descend towards the South Inylchek Glacier: — southeast; — south; — southwest. Moreover, in their lower parts, these spurs branch out into a series of rocky ridges heavily glaciated, thus forming numerous rocky walls. The southeast and south spurs merge at around 5,900 m and then connect to the summit dome via a short ridge. All ridges are sharp and typically crowned with large cornices overhanging to the east. The southwest ridge extends to approximately 5,500–5,600 m, where it transitions into a steep edge. To the east, the peak drops with a 1.5 km wall into the multi-kilometer cirque of the Chapayev Glacier. Between the southeast and south ridges lies a cirque with the Karatash Glacier.