Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B

The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours. From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice. The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category, but it's destroyed. I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids. In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed. The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.