Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;