Tuyuksu 1B cat. complexity with Tuyuksu col

Route description. Tuyuksu peak is located in the Malo-Almatinsky spur to the southwest of the eponymous 4100 m pass. A snow-ice ridge with intricate snow cornices connects it to the Igly Tuyuksu massif. To the northwest, a rocky ridge with sharp drops in height departs. Significant glaciation is observed on:

• northern slopes,
• western slopes. The southern slopes are heavily destroyed. The eastern slopes, descending towards the Left Talgar gorge, are covered with talus and areas of heavily destroyed rocks. The approach to Tuyuksu pass is described in the route to Pogorelsky peak. From the pass, the ascent begins along a wide northeastern ridge. On the eastern side, it is overhung by powerful cornices (be careful!). After 70 m, the ridge lowers slightly, becomes snowy, with sections of easy rocks, and after 200 m, the key point of the route is reached — a 5-meter ice wall. Here, depending on the state of the ridge, it is necessary to:
• Hang a rope for descent and ascent
• Use an ice axe or ice axe piton