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Rock4,390 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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The route to Pik Partizan via the south-eastern ridge, difficulty category 3B, includes challenging rock and ice sections, requiring careful belaying and specialized equipment.

Partizan ZB category via South-East Ridge

Route description.

The approach to the route is through Tuyuksu or Igly Tuyuksu passes. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Yuzhny Partizan glacier. From here, head to the saddle between the first and second towers of the south-eastern ridge. The path lies along the snowy and icy slopes. Before reaching the saddle:

  • Turn left towards the couloir
  • Exit the couloir onto the ridge above the two characteristic rock outcrops
  • Control point is located here Further:
  • Traverse left along the not very distinct ledges
  • Approach the internal corner, which ends with a 7-meter wall
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