траверс

Fig. 1

Peak Konstitutsii Kazakhstana (4709 m)

Traverse from northwest to southeast, route 4A cat. difficulty (Fig. 1). The summit named Konstitutsii Kazakhstana is located in the main ridge of Zailiysky Alatau, in the immediate vicinity of the northward spur that separates the Dmitrieva and Konstitutsii glaciers and is also named Konstitutsii. The traverse route begins from the initial bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Konstitutsii glacier. From the bivouac, cross the glacier (cautiously: crevasses!) towards the northwest ridge of Peak Konstitutsii. When ascending the ridge, follow the western edge as the slope is quite steep and avalanche-prone (45°). There are areas with flow ice. In the middle part of the edge, bypass a large bergschrund with step-cutting and thorough belaying. The steepness here is 60–65°. Further, the edge rises steeply. At the end of the season, it becomes entirely icy. Overcoming the edge requires 7–8 ice screws for belaying. The exit to the ridge is uncomplicated. On the first gendarme, there's a control cairn. The total length of the ridge is about three kilometers, with steepness in some areas reaching 50–60°. To the south, there are overhanging cornices. The ridge has many small drops and two dips. Descend into the first dip, after passing the second gendarme on the left side, via the slabs. The ascent from the dip is difficult and requires thorough belaying. Initially, it goes along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 55°, then the slope becomes icy, with a steepness of up to 60°. The ascent length is 100–120 m. Further, the ridge becomes somewhat gentler, very narrow, with steep slopes on both sides. This section of the ridge should be traversed very cautiously, walking along the ridge crest for 150–170 m. Some sections are traversed in a "penguin-like" manner.