DESCRIPTION

7.2.54

Traversing peak "Zharsay" with ascent via the north-eastern ridge from Zharsay glacier and descent via the north-western ridge to "Bezymyannyy" pass. The "Zharsay" peak is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau in the south-eastern direction from the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the peak is 4750 m (rao No. 1).

Day 1

The path from "Talgar" camp goes along a steep grassy slope to the east to the training rocks. Further, crossing the moraine of "Ozerny" glacier, we exit to its right (orographic) part, and the movement goes up along a clearly marked trail to a wide couloir (with reddish rock) descending from "Kolokolnikov" peak. At this point, we turn to the right and exit to "Ozerny" glacier and, moving along its middle part, approach the foot of "Taverentaau" pass. Time from the camp to the foot of the pass is 3.5–4 hours. The ascent to the pass goes along a wide, steep couloir covered with small and medium talus. In the middle and upper part of the couloir, the talus is partially covered with snow. The group used snowfields for the ascent. The ascent to the pass takes 2–2.5 hours. On the pass, the group left a note, the pass category is 2A.