Ю гребню
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the route to Peak Shurnikova via the Rzhany ridge, category 2A, including duration, necessary equipment, and terrain features.
KOSHURNKOVA PEAK. Via the southern ridge, category 2A, approximate
From the base camp 1.5 hours. The start of the route is a snow couloir with a slope of 45–50°. The snow is dry and loose. Under the snow is a large scree. Simultaneous movement in belay teams - 30 minutes. Ascent to a large gendarme from the invisible side (photo 1) with alternate belay (1 piton) - 20 minutes. Rocks of medium difficulty. There is a control cairn on the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme is simultaneous down easy rocks. Further (photo 2) along a simple ridge to the second gendarme: 5 m straight up, 1 piton. Descent from the gendarme is straightforward onto the ascent of a sharp ridge (40 m) - fixed rope. The steepness of the ascent is 30–35°. After the ascent, the slope becomes more gentle and descends to a subtle col. Movement is simultaneous. Then - ascent to the very summit. Rocks of medium difficulty with good protrusions for simultaneous belay. Steepness is 35°. From the control cairn to the summit is one and a half to two hours. Descent is along the wide eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5–4 hours. Necessary equipment for a group of 6 people: