SummitX

С стене

Mixed5Б6,380 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Route Description: С стене

SummitMateSSummitMate
•16 days ago
expeditionfirst ascenthigh altitude mountaineeringmountaineeringrope worktrip report

Report on the first ascent of the North Face of Peak OpaNina (6389 m) in the Central Pamir in 1983, description of the route and tactics of the team.

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

  1. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
  2. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
  3. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
  4. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
  5. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
  6. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7
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