4.4.72

Ascent to Peak Ya.M. Sverdlov via the northern ridge (1B cat. diff.). Trans-Alai Range, Pamir. 1967. Description compiled by V. Masyukov.

1. Introduction

In the summer season of 1967, a comprehensive high-altitude mountaineering expedition of the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" took place in Pamir. Over the course of July and August, the expedition participants carried out a series of ascents in both the Pamir region and Tian Shan. Before commencing work in Tian Shan, a 10-day training and acclimatization gathering was held in the area of the "Ala-Archa" mountaineering camp, which greatly benefited the subsequent high-altitude ascents. After completing a jubilee ascent in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Revolution to Peak Lenin, the expedition relocated to the district center of Darut-Kurgan, from where the participants were to be airlifted by helicopter to the upper reaches of the Forgambek glacier beneath the Big Pamir Firn Plateau, with plans to ascend to the plateau from the north and climb Peak Kommunizma via a new route. Looking ahead, it can be said that this plan was not fully realized due to circumstances beyond the control of the expedition participants. The "Burevestnik" mountaineers pioneered a path to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau from the north and also assisted a parachute landing party that made a unique group jump onto the plateau at an altitude of 6000 m. Thus, the delay with the helicopter in Darut-Kurgan and the established weather conditions allowed two groups of mountaineers from the expedition to ascend Peak Ya.M. Sverdlov from the Alтын-Dara valley via a new route.