4688

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REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK ROVANG (4796 m) VIA THE NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORT OF THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY 4B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY. Peak Rovan'g is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanchsky ridge in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Rovan'g-Dara river. The peak is visible from the village of Garmchashma. It is a partially snow-covered rocky massif, significantly higher than the pass points in the ridge, has 3 not very pronounced peaks and several counterforts extending to the North-West. To the North, a rib extends, dividing the Rovan'g-Dara river gorge into two branches. DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE From the village of Garmchashma along the road up to the Rovan'g-Dara gorge. Before reaching the fork in the gorge, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the river (until mid-July - via a snow bridge) and, ascending along the grassy rib, reach the "letovka". From the village, it takes 2-2.5 hours. Then, traverse left along the grassy slope to the left tributary of the Rovan'g-Dara river and along the tributary to the moraine, bypassing 3 canyons along steep grassy and clayey slopes with rocky outcrops. On the moraine, a place for a tent is cleared, and an overnight stay is set up. Water is available under the snow to the left and right of the moraine. From the village, it takes 7-8 hours. On the approach, it is advisable to wear crampons (steep grassy slopes, lack of trails, hard clay-pebble ground).

Route Description