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СКО ridge of Vershina range — peak Komurzang (local name), height 4563 m, route — via the Western edge. Assumed cat. difficulty — 3B. Characteristics of the route:

• height difference — 900 m
• length of sections of II cat. difficulty — 1000 m III cat. difficulty — 610 m, IV cat. difficulty — 180 m, average steepness — 40°. Number of pitons for belay — 8 rock. Number of travel hours — 8. The route was completed without overnight stays. Climbers: leader — Lelyakov Vladimir Anatolyevich — 2nd class; participants: Yevstifeev Vladimir Ivanovich — 1st class, Podkaminer Alexander Yuryevich — 1st class, Starlychanov Valery Dmitrievich — Master of Sports. Team coach — Master of Sports of International Class Demchenko Alexander Stepanovich. Departure to the route and return — July 12, 1979.

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ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KOMURZANG PEAK (4653 m) VIA THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY Komurzan Peak is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanch Range. It is clearly visible from the Vanch River valley between the villages of Sungat and Garmchashma. It is a triangular peak with moderately pronounced counterforts between the West and Northwest ridges. A large snowfield lies between these ridges, transitioning into a canyon.

Approach to the Route Description

From the base camp in the Vanch River valley between the villages of Garmchashma and Sungat, proceed to the West ridge and follow it to the "letovka" (3–3.5 hours). Continue along the ridge with rock outcrops to the start of the ridge ascent (3–3.5 hours) — the overnight location. A tent site can be prepared on the ridge; snow is available on the northern slope, but there is no water.

Route Description

From the overnight location, ascend the severely damaged rock ridge with small (2–5 m) walls to the red wall (section R0–R1, 1.5–2 hours). Movement is simultaneous, with insurance through ledges at certain points. At the base of the red wall, there is a control cairn on a platform (rockfall hazard!). The red wall (section R1–R2) — 1.5 ropes — is traversed on the right side, with an exit to the left at the top ("live" rocks, pitons!). There are no convenient locations for organizing insurance on this section.