The climbing object announced by the group of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" is well-known among Soviet mountaineers. It is the highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with an ascent to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau via Borodkin's route. For this reason, this report omits a geographical overview of the area, the history of its development, and a description of the approaches to the route. A few words should be said about the meteorological conditions in the area in July-August 1976.

• From July 5 to 20, the weather was stable: clear, with little wind even at heights up to 7000 m.
• After July 20, the weather became unstable. For example, on July 21, during the descent from Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, the group had to walk for a whole day with visibility not exceeding 500 m.
• From July 23 to 27, low cloud cover and continuous light rain were observed in the area. At an altitude of 7000 m, there was a very strong wind, and snow caught the group of the Tajik Medical-Biological Expedition, which, after waiting out the bad weather in a storm camp, was forced to abandon the ascent.
• However, during the ascent on August 7-9, the weather was good, but it was very cold: on the night of August 6-7, the minimum temperature at an altitude of 6000 m was –28 °C.

Acclimatization and training ascent

The group of climbers arrived at the Buluiev clearing as part of the collective of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" on August 8, having previously made an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4500 m in the Achik-Tash clearing area. On July 1, all group members left the base camp for an acclimatization hike. The main objectives of the exit were:

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) from the north from the Walter Glacier by the Central Council team of the "Burevestnik" DSDO in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents.

Team Captain	Yu. Borodkin
Coach	L. Dobrovolsky
Moscow 1968

1. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The highest peak in the Soviet Union — Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) — rises at the junction of the Academy of Sciences and Peter I ridges (photo №4). The main orographic questions of the Peak Kommunizma mountain node were finally resolved in 1933 by the expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences. In the same year, the first ascent to the summit was made from the east. The powerful glaciation of Peak Kommunizma belongs to the basins of the Bivachny, Garmo, and Fortambek glaciers. To the south, the summit drops with a three-kilometer sheer wall onto the Garmo Glacier.