СЗ ребру

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) via the northwest edge, accomplished from August 3 to 16, 1972, during the USSR Armed Forces Championship in mountaineering. Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko Range, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences Range near Peak Garmo. To the north and northwest, the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier adjoin the base of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, while its southern slopes feed the right tributary of the Geographical Society Glacier. The eastern and northeastern slopes contribute to the formation of the twin-headed Koma-Akademii Glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko Glacier near a high-altitude weather station. The first ascent to the South Summit of Peak Koma-Akademii was made via the northeast face in 1965 by a team from the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the Uzbek SSR, led by A. P'yankov. In 1971, a team from the USSR Armed Forces mountaineering training camp, led by A. Bitny, repeated the ascent, reaching the north summit via the south summit and the southeast face. During the 1972 season, the base camp for the USSR Armed Forces mountaineers was established on July 25, 85 km from the town of Vanch, near the Geographical Society Glacier, at an altitude of 2600 m. The area of the planned ascents was well-studied during the 1971 USSR Armed Forces training camp, allowing all participants to immediately begin training climbs in the high-altitude zone. From July 27 to 31, all team members:

• participated in setting up assault camps #1 and #2;
• conducted thorough reconnaissance and reviewed the planned ascent routes;
• made necessary supplies of food and equipment;
• underwent active acclimatization at altitudes of 4200–5000 m.