через Плоский Толбачик

Mixed3,670 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a detailed description of the challenging route and key considerations for mountaineers.

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Ascent to Ostry Tolbachik volcano (3682 m) via Plosky from the north, category of complexity 2B, route description and key features.

Vlk. Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. 3682 m through Plos­kiy from the north, 2B cat. dif., (A. Be­re­zin, 1965)

From the base camp, located in the valley of the Stu­de­na­ya river, the approach to the beginning of the ridge of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik along alpine meadows takes 2 hours. At the foot of the ridge begins a large and medium scree, along them along the glacier - the exit to the beginning of the ascent (see photo). The ridge is a wide lava flow, covered with firn and ice, passed simultaneously in rope teams. Before reaching the summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano, the slope steepness increases to 35°, and there are many open crevasses (Bergschrunds); all crevasses are overcome by snow bridges. The summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik is a snow-firn plateau three kilometers long, with a huge crater in the western part, 1800 m by 1500 m in diameter. Along the plateau in the western direction - the exit to the edge of the crater. The ascent time for this section of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano is 5-6 hours. Crossing the plateau in the direction of the snowy ridge, one and a half kilometers long, with a steepness of 35-40°, leads to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. Passing the ridge is done simultaneously in rope teams. The ascent from Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik takes 1.5-2 hours. The summit is a snow dome, from which icefalls descend to the north and south. The total ascent time is 8-9 hours. Descent from the summit:

  • along the ascent route;
  • it is possible to descend directly from the summit along the 2B route - the northern slope.
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