6. V. Zaromag via North Counterfort and East Ridge, cat. 4B

EAST RIDGE ZIL PASS SADDLE BIG G. I P. II P. III P. IV P. WEST RIDGE VCSPS SHOULDER FRESHFIELD PASS

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a small rocky ridge and then under the wall to a well-defined inner corner. Up the 6-meter inner corner to a small site. Then, along a heavily destroyed 20-meter couloir, ascent to the ridge. From the ridge, cross a wide scree couloir, followed by a 60 m traverse along a steep, heavily destroyed, moderately difficult rocky slope to reach the ice-snow couloir. Along the 60-meter ice-snow slope, and in the upper part - a heavily destroyed rocky couloir - exit from the top of the North Counterfort to the right onto the snow slope of the hanging glacier. From here, first along the snow slope, bypassing the rocky island of the North Counterfort to the right, then passing between the rocks and a large crevasse to the right, along a steep ice-snow 150-180-meter slope, move left-up to the upper part of the snow plateau of the hanging glacier. Along a gentle snow slope, approach the saddle of the Eastern ridge to the right of the "ЗИЛ" gendarme. Overcoming the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend a steep 40-meter ice-snow slope to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. From the bivouac at the 2nd gendarme, 5-6 hours. From here along the Eastern ridge.

47. Zaramag via the North Buttress and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the CSP of the Tsey area to the initial bivouac in the South Branch hut of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut (departure at 3:00–4:00 a.m.):

• Cross the plateau of the South Branch of the Tsey Glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the second, counting from the right, narrow ice-and-snow couloir of the North wall of Zaramag peak.
• At the top, ice seracs of the North wall overhang the middle part of the couloir. From the plateau, via an avalanche gully in the center of the couloir, cross the bergschrund and traverse 100 m left-upwards (rockfall, possible avalanches, ice serac collapses) to approach a small couloir descending from the North Buttress of the East Ridge of Zaramag peak and ending in a narrow shaft with a plug. Turn left at the beginning of the couloir. Via a small inclined ledge, then via steep, above-average difficulty rocks (pitons), ascend to the ridge of the North Buttress. Here, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the North Buttress to a ledge. Along the ledge, 200–250 m upwards via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the North Buttress under the overhanging walls to a site. From the hut, 3–4 hours. From the site of the I gendarme, standing to the right of the ridge of the buttress, bypass left via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the upper buttress with an ascent of 200–250 m (pitons) to a site. From the site:
• Via simple, then steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty, an ascent of 200–250 m under the 2nd gendarme.