ЮВ гребню

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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the summit of Bubis (4428 m) along the south-eastern ridge, combined route of 3B category of complexity.

Fig. 29 124. Bubis (4428 m) via the Southeast Ridge (combined route by B. Simagin, category 3B difficulty, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier under the slopes of Bubis peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, ascend the snowy plateau of the glacier to approach the right side of the Tsey-Tbilisi Pass between Bubis peak on the right and Chanckakhi peak on the left. On the plateau, overcome the bergschrund via an avalanche gully, and ascend (possible avalanches and rockfall - piton belay) straight up the steep ice-snow slope. Then, ascend steep, broken, but straightforward rocks (key belay) to reach the Tsey-Tbilisi Pass. The path to the Tsey-Tbilisi Pass from the Shovi resort:

  • From Shovi resort, ascend a forest trail to the right slopes of the narrow canyon of the Bubis River.
  • Follow the trail high above the river to approach the point where Bubis River sharply turns left and the Tbilisi River flows into it.
  • Descend to the Tbilisi River.
  • Proceed a short distance upstream along the right bank.
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