траверс
Mixed5А4,487 m
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of a combined route, category 5A, to the peaks Maly Sugan, Centralny Sugan, and Uzlovoy Sugan in Kabardino-Balkaria.
- Sugan Maly — Uzlovoy (V. Popov's combined route, cat. 5A, fig. 11). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the scree of the wide snow plateau of the Sugan ridge saddle between the peaks Suganbashi on the left and Maly Sugan on the right is described in route 35. From the base camp — 8–10 hours. The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade to the initial bivouac via the Doppakh pass takes:
- 1–2 days (see routes 17, 22, 26, 28). From the bivouac, along the snow plateau, bypassing the Southeast ridge of the Central Sugan peak on the right, approach the snowy slope of the wide couloir descending from the upper part of the Southeast ridge of the massif to the plateau. Overcoming the bergschrund, perform a 200 m ascent, sticking to the rocks, along the steep ice-snow slope (running belay). Then:
- ascend 40 m along the wet slabs (running belay) to the Southeast ridge of Maly Sugan;
- turn right;
- ascend 160 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge with numerous gendarmes;
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