Fig. 12

False Sugan

The summit of False Sugan (3900 m) is located in the ridge-crutch connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of South Sugan to the south and (beyond the Gülchi pass) Sugan-Tau to the north. The summit is snow-covered, its rocky slopes and ridges are simple, heavily destroyed. The only ridge route, laid from the Gülchi pass, was climbed on August 17, 1933, by N. Moroz, A. Zhukov, A. Gerasimov, K. Rossiy.

46. False Sugan via North Ridge (combined route, III category of difficulty, fig. 2, 12).

From a large boulder in the upper left corner of the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) traverse:

• left-upwards through the grassy and talus slopes of the Nakhashbita massif,
• the middle part of the moraine deposits of the Maly Nakhashbita glacier,
• then a grassy slope under the walls of the South ridge of the South Doppakh peak. Bypassing the ridge of South Doppakh from the left, ascend a steep grassy slope 300 m to the right to the terminal moraine of the Doppakh glacier (rockfall possible from the slopes of the peaks when approaching the Doppakh glacier). The moraine of the Doppakh glacier can also be reached along the right bank of the Orsdon river. Then ascend the right-bank moraine, then exit left onto the Doppakh glacier and traverse along the moraine to its end. From here, ascend the glacier, crossing it to the left, to the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort descending from the South ridge of the Sugan-Tau peak, to the right of the visible Gülchi pass. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 3-4 hours. On the platforms - initial bivouac.