СЗ гребню
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Ascent to West Doppat via Northwest Ridge, a combined route of 4B category of difficulty, duration 3 days.
Fig.
7
Fig. 8
27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26.
From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer.
From under the zhendarmer:
- 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
- traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.