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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of route 7 on the North wall of Main Galdora, a combined route of 5B category of difficulty, including overcoming rocks, ice and snow slopes and a complex traverse.

fig. 3 7. Main Galdor via North Face (the route is combined, V. Popova, cat. 5B, fig. 3). From the initial bivouac (a group of 4–5 people) on the snow plateau or the moraine of the Yuzhny Khazni glacier (due to rockfall in the lower part of the wall, exit at 23:00 night) approach the bergschrund to the left of the lower rocky cape of the North Face of Main Galdor, to the left of the huge ice drop. Having overcome the bergschrund, ascend a steep icy slope to the rocks left and above the lowest rocky cape of the North Face. Then move right and upwards along difficult monolithic, smooth, with a small number of

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