3 гребню

Mixed4,689 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the summit of Krumkol via the West Ridge, complexity category 4B, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

58. Krumkol via the West Ridge — Category 4B difficulty (N. Chekmarev and V. Proshina — August 23, 1938; Fig. 19). The path from the "Bezengi" alplager to the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak see in description 42. The path from the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges see in description 43. On the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak — a bivouac. From the glacier, ascend via the snowy slope and easy rocks on the left side of the counterfort, left of the snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak, then via steep snow and moderately difficult rocks (pitons!) upwards — exit right onto the counterfort. Ascend via easy rocks of the counterfort. After 60–70 m, descend into the snowy couloir and ascend via it, sticking to the left rocks. From the bend of the couloir, 70–80 m upwards via the rocks on its left side (pitons! "live" rocks!), then left — upwards onto the snow patch of the counterfort. From it, upwards via moderately difficult rocks of the counterfort. From under the wall, traverse right and upwards through the couloir onto the rocks on its right side (pitons!). Via smoothed 50-meter rocks, ascend to the West Ridge of Krumkol peak (pitons!). From the initial bivouac — 6–7 hours. From the saddle, ascend via the easy snowy West Ridge of Krumkol peak. The first gendarme is passed via easy rocks of the ridge. Further:

  • 200–220 m upwards via the snowy-icy ridge (cornices!) and slope under the second gendarme;
  • via steep moderately difficult rocks — 40-meter ascent to the gendarme and from it, a 20-meter descent;
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