правому Ю кф.

Main Dykhtau via the right-hand Southern counterfort — Category 5A (V. Egorov, O. Ilyinsky, A. Kolchin, I. Kudinov, V. Ovsyannikov and V. Toropov — July 7, 1960; Figs. 25, 26, 27). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the scree ridge under the Southern wall of the Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73. From the scree ridge:

• up and left across a snowy plateau
• up a rocky snowy gully to a broad scree shelf running along the entire Southern wall of the Dykhtau massif. Along the shelf to the right, crossing:
• two 40–50 m ice-snow gullies (stonefall hazard!)
• and down a 3–4 m wall (“live” rocks!) into a narrow snowy gully (stonefall hazard!). Up and right through the gully to reach the heavily broken rocks of the right-hand Southern counterfort of Main Dykhtau peak. 150–170 m up the broken easy rocks of the right-hand counterfort to a shoulder below a 70–80 m rock belt.