Ю гребню

Mixed4,471 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the route to the top of Bashkhaauz via the southern ridge from the MSTU pass, including the approach, technically difficult sections, and hazardous areas.

Bashkhauz, S. Ridge

The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:

  • Traverse left 20 m.
  • Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass. The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description. Hazardous areas:
  • on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak
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