СВ стене
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the route to the summit of Ullu-Kara via the Donguz-Orun, Kvish, Tsalgmyl passes and the ice dome, indicating technical details and categories of difficulty.
From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag.