2. Description

Ascending the north-west slope Traversing the Sakashil-Bashi massif from East to West Leave the bivouac as early as possible (at 3–4 am). From the "3430" bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier, ascend the glacier, avoiding crevasses on the right, to a steep snow-ice slope leading to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Continue ascending the snowy slope towards a rocky outcrop under the saddle. Reach the rocky island and traverse left for 10–15 m along a 45–50° ice slope, cutting steps and using ice axe insurance via an ice screw, and reach inclined slabs. Ascend the inclined slabs first left-upwards (using piton insurance, beware of loose rocks!) — 15–20 m, and then right-upwards to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Elevation — 3700 m, 1.5–2 hours from the bivouac. From the saddle, ascend a 6–7 m wall, and then right along a ledge to a rocky ridge leading to the start of the ice-snow ridge of the Sakashil-Bashi massif summit. 1 hour from the saddle. At the boundary of rocks, there's a control cairn. Ascend the ice-snow slope leading to the "Glavnaya" (Main) summit via areas of firn and snow using crampons, with insurance via an ice axe; the slope steepness is 50–60°. Ascend initially towards a snowy depression, and then traverse the edge of the depression from right to left, directly to the summit ridge. The length of the ice-snow slope is 10–12 rope lengths; the steepest section of the slope, 25–30 m long (1 rope length), is overcome using front-point cramponing with careful insurance. Continue along the snowy ridge to the "Glavnaya" summit.