3 гребню
Rock1Б3,819 m
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of 1Б category route to Maly Kogutai summit via Western ridge from "Baksan" alp camp in 2 days.
- Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route) From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours. The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours. From the saddle:
- descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
- traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
- cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
- ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours. From the col:
- turn left;
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