Tyutyu Central via the West Ridge, combined, 26 hours

Route description:

The path from the Ullutau alpbase to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine near the West Tyutyu glacier follows the trail in the Kulukol gorge, on its left side, with a steep ascent to the glacier tongue. It's also possible to ascend via the Rayskie nochyovki (Paradise Camps) and exit onto the moraine shoulder of the West ridge of Shogentsukova peak. From the campsite, exit onto the glacier and move along its left part (closed crevasses!) to approach the Kulukol pass col, located under the southern slope of the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak. From the pass:

• Turn right
• Traverse the col along a simple snowy scree
• Ascend the ice-snow slope to the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak On the West ridge:
• Bypass the Katya Korlyakova gendarme (with a triangulation tripod on its summit)