СЗ кф.

Jailyk via NW buttress (K. Tolstov's route, cat. 5A) The routes along the NW buttress and N wall start from the Tyutyusu gorge, which explains their low traffic; however, for winter conditions, the routes on the northern aspect of Jailyk are more preferable due to the possibility to ascend almost entirely on ice. Approach and Bivouac

• The initial bivouac is located at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the snowy plateau of the Tyutyu glacier — opposite the North wall of Jailyk peak.
• From the bivouac, ascend along the glacier, then along a 60-meter ice-and-snow slope to approach the left side of the wide rocky Lower Island to the right of the North wall of Jailyk peak. Ascent to the Lower Rocky Island
• From the slope, to the right of the avalanche cone, ascend straight up through difficult rocks of a vertical 10–12-meter corner, a 4-meter chimney, and steep 10-meter rocks of medium difficulty onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m along steep, crumbling rocks of medium difficulty, alternating with small walls, under a 40–50-meter wall.
• Ascend a difficult chimney up and to the right onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend up and to the left along smooth, higher — crumbling rocks of the wall and exit from it onto a weakly expressed ridge.