с севера

Rock3,567 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of a 2B category rock climbing route to the Jalpakol summit via the eastern ridge, first ascended by A. Fridman in 1959.

M5. Djalpakol via the Eastern Ridge

(climbing route, category 2B, first ascent by A. Fridman, 1959) The path to the eastern ridge of Djalpakol is visible from the bivouac - it's a large talus couloir that leads to the first left, lowest, notch in the ridge immediately after its rocky section. Ascent via the couloir:

  • yellow-colored talus (loose rocks!) Upon reaching the ridge:
  • turn right;
  • move along weathered rocks with individual rock walls After about 300 m, ascend to the beginning of the narrow part of the ridge. From here, reach the gendarme and bypass it on the left — R1. Sections R3 and R5 require piton protection! The key sections are:
  • the light-colored rise of the ridge,
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