В стене баст.

Mixed3,979 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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First ascent of the northern wall of the Dalar bastion via the eastern edge in 1964 by the MGS "*SPARTAK*" team, led by Kavunenko V.D.

Dalar

via the north wall of the bastion with exit to the summit along the eastern edge Team of MGS "SPARTAK" Coach and head MS USSR Kavunenko V.D.

Reconnaissance of the wall

The first acquaintance with the wall took place through photographs from different sides and detailed consultations. However, this allowed only a general impression to be formed. Therefore, one of the very important tasks was a detailed study of the wall. The first reconnaissance exit to the wall took place on June 15, 1964. The wall of the bastion is composed of gray granites, with an average steepness of 75°, and the wall's length is about 500 m. The first observations showed:

  • Passing the wall directly along the corner would require a lot of piton work (150–200 m) without a combination with free climbing.
  • A few tens of meters to the east (40–60 m), a logical exit was noted along a crack going vertically upwards to the upper part of the bastion, where a combination of free climbing with the need to use artificial support points is possible. From the upper part of the bastion to the eastern ridge of the pre-summit tower of Dalar leads a single snow-ice ridge.
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