Fig. 53

3. Traverse of the Dottakh-kaya — Bu-Ulgen massif (see Fig. 53–56)

From Dombayskaya polyana to the Northern shelter by car. From the Northern shelter, across the river Khokel via a log, to Chotcha polyana - bivouac. From the Northern shelter, 1 hour. From the bivouac, crossing the Chotcha gorge, to the right and further along the snows of avalanche depositions, approach to the first couloir on the slope of the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Through the couloir, exit to the "ram's foreheads" and further ascent to the eastern ridge descending towards the Northern shelter. Without reaching the ridge, traverse left into the cirque of a small glacier. Along the snowy slope of the cirque, diagonally upwards to a rocky outcrop, bypass the outcrop on the left and along a steep snowslope (belay!) - exit to the ridge. Then along the ridge and, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the left via a ledge, - exit to the saddle between the main ridge of Dottakh-kaya and the rocky outcrop. From the saddle, along the main ridge (steep rocks of medium difficulty, belay through outcrops, partly piton!) - exit to the Eastern peak of Dottakh-kaya. Further path to the Western peak of Dottakh-kaya is described in the traverse description of Dottakh-kaya.