Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier