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Rock3,910 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the summit Main Aksaut (3910 m) from the south, category of difficulty 2B, route description and recommendations for climbers.

1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

  • 300–350 m left-up,
  • then 180–200 m right — up,
  • exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further:
  • traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
  • crossing the bergschrund (protection!),
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